Reptiles Magazine Community / Reptile Forums / Snake Stuff

Venomous snakes

Reptile_Dude — Sat, 20 Sep 2008 13:43:12 GMT

Someone recently asked me, "Would you ever keep a venomous snake?".

Good question. I'm not very sure, but it'll be interesting to see what others think about keeping hots (I suppose that gila monsters and beaded lizards could be included but don't tell anyone, were in the snake stuff section).

Amazon Tree Boa

Liverpoolfan9 — Sat, 04 Oct 2008 17:35:18 GMT

Thinking on getting an amazon tree boa. I relize they are nippy and am up for the challenge. So was wondering if they could be kept in a rubbermaid tub to keep adequate humidity. Or should it be in an glass cage. Any advice would be great!

Thanks.

Anti Venom business

HerperSk8r — Tue, 17 Jun 2008 14:55:12 GMT

How good is it oin the Anti Venom business. Like milking a snake's venom. Can u sell i for research? if u can how good is that business.Could u make a life living out of it?

So u want to keep venomous???

MDC_Ophiuchus — Wed, 30 Apr 2008 18:41:16 GMT

There's been some recent inquiries in the past several weeks regarding different aspects of keeping venomous snakes, so I'm gonna address some general points here and hopefully, it can become a pinned topic for the future after a week or so.

First of all, let me say that I have never kept a venomous (hot) snake in my life, so the following information is advice and tips I've learned from those who have. I know there's a couple hot keepers that are members here, so if they would like to cover anything I missed, by all means, do so.

There are two rather unnofficial rules of the Venomous Snake Club:

1.)....don't talk about Venomous Snake Club! Lol.....this is often used as a joke (in reference to the Fight Club movie), but its partly true; most hot keepers are very discreet about their hobby and are often very reluctant to share advice to just anyone. So its best to be discreet and aware of who you talk to, and really be careful how you conduct yourself and word your questions intelligently (just FYI, superb grammar skill help with this!)

2.) If you have to ask if you are ready for keeping hots, you're probably not. Many herpers want to jump into hots long before they're even ready. Pretty much every hot keeper I've talked with agrees that there is really no non-venomous snake species that truly prepare you for any venomous species. Its like using slingshots and squirt guns for a summer, then you want to buy a real gun. There's a world of difference. Some people seem to think that snake keeping is some kind of game, and that it's a natural progression to start keeping hots after you've kept X types of snakes for X number of years. Its not like that at all. This isn't some "game" where hots are the next "level" you have to beat.

Its is always suggested to find an experienced hot keeper and mentor under him to gain knowledge and experience yourself. In fact, some states require this before you can legally own a hot on your own.
------------------------

Okay, so let's start at the beginning....

I.) You first need to ask youself why you want to get into hots and understand the severity of your decision. Unless you truly are fascinated about the select hot species you desire and would like to learn more about them via firsthand experience, you need to re-evaluate this whole thing. Snakes (or any animal for that matter) are not status symbols; if you want to prove your masculinity, buy a Hummer or take karate lessons. If you want to impress your friends, learn to juggle or something. Bear in mind that the ramifications of screwing up with keeping a hot snake are much more dire than any of the other things I just mentioned, or keeping a python or kingsnake. The least worst thing is that the animal escapes your custody and may never be seen again....the worst case scenario is it crossing path with a neighbor and bites them, possibly sending them to the hospital or killing them. And of course, you could let your guard down for a sec and receive a bite yourself. And any version of the above will result in very bad press for all reptile owners. So remember that your actions represent the hobby as a whole; after all, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. There already have been weak links that release their burmese pythons loose in the Everglades and look where that has led us.

II.) Have you considered the medical and insurance issues of owning a hot? For starters, most insurance companies will drop you if they discover you own a hot (or any snake for that matter!). So you need to make sure you have a good health/life insurance with a well-informed agent you can trust. Also, be prepared for medical expenses. Antivenin is expensive. One bad bite could cost you thousands of dollars in medical bills that your health insurance may or may not cover. These are important things to keep in mind.

III.) Let's say you've mentored under an experienced hot keeper, and you are genuinely ready for keeping a hot of your own. A lot of people ask what the best beginner hot snake is and they sometimes get different answers. One thing B.W. Smith suggests to remember is locality and lethality; meaning you want to keep something that doesn't have a high-fatality rate and something whose antivenin is most readily available. For most people living east of the MS river, a copperhead is most likely the best choice; the bites from these snakes, even as adults, are rarely known to be fatal and because they're so frequently encountered in their range, most hospitals stock the correct antivenin for copperhead bites. So in the event of a bite, the worst you can normally expect is a steep hospital bill, a temporary incapacitated digit/limb, a bruised ego and hopefully, some wise insight on how to avoid getting bit again. Other commonly suggested hots for beginners are:

- Eyelash viper = these little buggers are similar to copperheads in that they're small, do not have very lethal venom, and their antivenin is somewhat commonly available (most zoos should have it if the hospital does not). However, their drawback is that they're tricky to deal with with a snake hook due to their arboreal nature of coiling tightly around limbs.

- Gaboon or Rhino vipers = these guys are often suggested because of their usually slow and placid demeanor. However, this group of vipers has some of the fastest striking snakes on the planet, something like 27 ft per second. The human hand, even in a reflex, simply does not move that fast, so if your guard is let down, these snakes can surprise you. And a bite is no fun; their antivenin is not so common.

- Monocled cobra = now, any elapid is a different ballgame from vipers; most vipers are fat and slow and relatively easy to deal with a good hook. Most elapids are fast, active snakes that demand every bit of your attention when their cage door is open. That said, monocles are usually a good starter elapid because, like the eyelash viper, they're a staple at almost every zoo, so most zoos will have their antivenin on hand.

IV.) Proper caging is a must, and glass tanks just don't cut it. You need to invest in a custom snake cage that is escape-proof and has locking mechanisms whenever the cage is closed. Bricks and heavy books atop the screen lid on an aquarium is not secure.

V.) You probably want a separate room reserved specifically for your hot(s). Make sure the room is secure and virtually escape-proof should the hot somehow escape its cage. Also make sure the door can be locked to make sure "unqualified" people do not enter the room without your permission. Get with an experienced hot keeper to help you design it properly.

VI.) Get the proper equipment; snake hooks, tongs, lockboxes that double has hides, etc etc...

VII.) Also make sure you keep accurate records of what hots you keep and proper protocol for your loved ones in the event you get bit. Most hospital staff have very little or no training on how to deal with snakebites so its better to help them as much as you can. This protocol includes listing all the nearest sources for the antivenin you need.
------------------------

This is only the tip of the iceberg as far as keeping hots go. But hopefully it gives everyone a good idea of what is really involved with keeping venomous. Its a serious hobby meant for serious keepers. There's very little margin for error.

Here's a link to Al Coritz (aka viperkeeper on Youtube) websites:

http://www.deadlybeautiful.com/

http://youtube.com/user/viperkeeper?ob=1

Also, here's a link to ReptileRadio. Look for the segments from Ray Hunter (Cobraman) and B.W. Smith:

http://www.blogtalkradio.com/reptileradio

Anorexic Burm

levizooschool0708 — Tue, 09 Sep 2008 04:36:01 GMT

I have recently purchased a ten foot burmies python. He is a big baby with absolutely no attitude problems. which seems to be a rarity in large constrictors. The owner said he ate well and once he started he would eat anything i put in front of him. So I believed him. I have had him for over two months now. He has not eaten once for me. I have had him checked out by a vet, he seems to be a healthy snake. His current enclosure is a little small, but a larger ten foot enclosure is in the make right now. His heat is exactly as it should be, 14 hours day heat, 10 hours night heat. He has a water bowl big enough for him to curled up in. I am completely out of ideas! I have never had this problem with any of my snakes before. I know that pythons can be very picky eaters, and go long periods of time without eating. This i crazy though. Any help to save my snake will be most appreciated. Thank you!

Sand Boa

Blitz55 — Wed, 01 Oct 2008 15:06:55 GMT

i have a baby sand boa that i got about a month ago.the guy i got it from told me to keep him in sand with a water dish and the proper heating and thats about all i need.however i purchased a book about them and it said the best subsrate to use that looks natural is a sand soil mix...however im having a difficult time finding out exactly what that is.i have also heard that crushed walnut and aspen works.im just wondering what subsrate is best and naturalistic.please help!

Snake choice...

Reptile_Gal_1010 — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 00:03:14 GMT

Ok, so I reeeeally want a ball python, but my mom is making me wait until the summer to get one (Plus I have to get all A's in school...bleh). Plus, by next summer we should be getting close to buying a house so it can have tons of room.

So, for now, and on my x-mas list is a kenyan sand boa. I know there easy to care for and breed, but how are they handling wise? Are they the kind of snake who you can take out and walk around the house? Would it be an ok snake to go outside with and take a walk around the block or something with? Another plus is their small size, we are living in an apartment with a yard and so we dont really have a lot of space for a big ball python tank right at this moment.

Could anyone else recommend some friendly, on the smallish size (could be kept in a 40-50 gal. breeder for whole life),good eaters, and easy breeder would be a plus snakes?

Thanks so much,
Ali

Let me See Some of Yours!

HMK91 — Sun, 28 Sep 2008 08:12:28 GMT

Here are some of mine!

Isis 2,000 gram sweetheart Ball Python

Aurora 1,300 gram scaredy cat

Orion reticulated python (little bigger now)

Chet pastel 50% het hypo

Bella the Blood

Osiris 50% Colombian x 50% Argentine

One Eyed pastel, Patchy

Amadeus Spider

Boo, our biggest girl

Ted the Crestie

Common Snapper

Both Meller's Chameleons (still need names)

Little Burm (no name either)

D'alberts Python, Pyro

Agro and Acco (Agro is trying to Kill Acco and yes, there is glass between them)

We also have mice, cockroaches, an eastern paint and another soft shell turtle

Best Beginner Snakes - Part I - Colubrids

Kathy Love — Mon, 21 Jul 2008 10:35:35 GMT

by Kathy Love

So you want a new pet snake – maybe always have wanted one, but now you finally are able to fulfill a desire you have had for a long, long time. But which snake? Which species will be the best one to start with? That question comes up a lot on this forum, so here are some pointers to help you make an informed decision so that you and your new pet will have a long, happy life together.

There are lots of species that make good pets, but in my opinion, nothing can beat a corn snake (Elaphe guttata previously, but now named Pantherophis guttatus) for your first snake. Kingsnakes (Lampropeltis getula spp.) are a close second choice. I will also include African house snakes (Lamprophis fuliginosus) in the “top 3” choices, and will discuss some pros and cons of each.

All three of these species feature attractive and variable colors and patterns, large enough size for sturdiness in handling, but not too big so that they are unwieldy or difficult to house. They also exhibit a tendency towards tameness along with ease of care and breeding. But if they are all so perfect, how do you choose one over another? There are some differences, and some traits will be more important to one person than to another.

Corns take first place in this discussion. Their highly variable colors and patterns, and wide availability for a very reasonable cost contribute towards making them THE most popular pet snake in the world. Although new hatchling corns occasionally need a little trickery for their first meal or two, most will start right out on either frozen / thawed (f/t) newborn mice, or at least live ones.

Once the breeder has gotten the baby started, it is usually trouble free as long as you follow the care sheet or book that you hopefully purchased with it. Most importantly, do whatever you can to reduce stress during the first few weeks until it is on a regular feeding schedule – this is true for all new pet reptiles.

Although corns are rarely cannibalistic and usually prefer mice (in the wild, babies may eat some lizards and tree frogs as well), it is still a good idea to house them separately. All snakes are solitary animals by nature. Cagemates can present more stress than is necessary.

To prepare for your new corn, all you really need is a very secure cage (a small plastic terrarium is fine for a baby, a 20-gallon long aquarium, or something similar, is the minimum size for an adult – even bigger is better). Corn snakes are great escape artists (just as all snakes are), so be sure the doors close tightly and that there are no large ventilation openings.

Add some aspen shavings as a substrate and a heat pad under, or an incandescent bulb over, one end of the cage so there’s a cooler, darker area at the opposite side to which the snake can retreat. Be sure any white lights are turned off when the sun goes down - let your snake enjoy a night period just as you do. A long, hollow log or hide box should ideally span the cage so the snake can shelter in either the warm or cool end. Add a thermometer that can be moved around the cage (not stuck on the glass) so that you can make sure the inside of the warm hide is in the mid-80sF and the cool side is at least several degrees cooler.

A heavy water dish that can’t be tipped is necessary so fresh water can be made available at least several days per week. Fill it only halfway so they don’t overflow it when they soak in it. Locate it on the perimeter of the cage where they’ll roam and find it easily, often at night.

How do kings differ from corns? They are very much alike, and the setup described above will work very well for kings too. Kings tend to be a little messier, so a bigger cage than for a similarly sized corn means the cage won’t get dirty quite as quickly. An important difference is, unlike corns, kings LOVE to eat other snakes, as well as rodents, frogs, lizards, even turtle eggs in the wild. But in captivity, we usually just feed rodents to kings because they do fine on that readily obtained diet.

Obviously, it is even more important to keep kings away from other snakes than it is for corns. Breeders put their kings together for mating, and they are generally fine. But when I bred kings, I always kept an eye on them. Another thing to watch for: I’ve had an occasional female king turn around and eat her own eggs while laying them, a problem I’ve never encountered with corn snakes.

If you think corns have a great feeding response, wait until you feed a king snake. Once they are established feeders, stand back! Some kings charge forward to grab food, or anything they see moving when they smell food. Most people like to feed them in separate containers so that they will not get used to expecting food every time their cage is opened. That might save a few fingertip nips!

Although the various subspecies of kings have quite a bit of variability, the adults do not possess the true reds of corns, so their colors are more limited. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Look at lots of kings and corns while taking into account feeding and personality traits to decide which is for you.

African house snakes are one of the few good pet snakes that I have never actually owned myself – so I am certainly not an expert on them. But I feel they have to be included among the best pets because of the enthusiasm of their keepers, and the hardiness and prolific nature of this species. If you are looking for an easy to care for snake that comes in a variety of colors and patterns, and is smaller than the kings and corns, then the African house snake may be what you are looking for.

Lamprophis fuliginosus, as they are known scientifically, seem to outperform even my first two choices in terms of fertility. Most breeders have to separate them part of the year so that they don’t just reproduce constantly until the poor things wear out. They are known to have some of the best feeding response of any snake, and although they are usually maintained on a rodent diet, they are known to eat lizards, frogs, and pretty much whatever they can catch. There are several colors and patterns available, even albinos. However, I have never seen any that compare in brightness to the reds and yellows of really brilliant corns.

The set up for corns and kings should work well for house snakes. But they often run a foot or two smaller, especially the males. They average considerably thinner than a heavy-bodied corn, so you can get away with a slightly smaller cage for them.

Don’t forget to buy a care book! These forums are great, but reading a good book cover to cover will give you a good foundation so you’ll know which questions to ask. Of course I may be prejudiced, because my own corn snake book is published by Bowtie, but the reason I recommend the Bowtie books is because each one is written by somebody who actually keeps and breeds the species, not somebody who just researches it for an hour and then writes an ‘authoritative’ book.

Any of the above three will make a great first pet for you. Do some additional research, look at lots of photos to see what appeals to you, and purchase (and read) the book before you get the snake. You may well save future problems and money on the snake, equipment, and supplies by reading and asking the right questions first.

Here are typical representatives of the 3 species I've discussed:

Corn snake Elaphe guttata guttata

Eastern / chain king snake Lamopropeltis getula getula

African house snake Lamprophis fuliginosus

Stay tuned to Reptile Channel for the next installment - Best Beginner Boas and Pythons.

finally.. cage plans! plus a new idea...

herpintedd — Thu, 02 Oct 2008 13:26:00 GMT

Ok so I finally have some plans drawn up for my columbian boa. He is 6ft 7 in. I was going to build a 6x2.5x2 cage with melamine and have to sliding plexi or lexan pieces in the front with a lock. I would seal all the corners with silicone and the top would be a melamine frame with a tough mesh for the lights/ CHE. I also plan on putting vent holes with pvc and screen on the sides. My idea was to get some really wide pvc and have it lead to a rubbermaid humidity box next to the cage. This too would be sealed very well. I haven't been able to think of anything wrong with this yet, but I might have over looked some things. Any suggestions/ constructive criticism would be great. Thanks!

Building cages

Moyer78 — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 20:22:41 GMT

I am thinking of building a cage for my Burmese

Should I build a frame under the plywood or just use thick plywood If anyone has built one and has some Ideas or tips it would be greatly welcomed

Two-faced ball python?

Bill Love — Mon, 29 Sep 2008 21:43:30 GMT

This piebald ball reminded me a little of the 'Two-Face' character on the latest Batman movie, courtesy of Chad Snellgrove Reptiles.

I also caught this nice shot of a melanistic and snowball laying together, courtesy of Don Kaye Reptiles.

What snake is better?

the herptile master — Fri, 26 Sep 2008 19:52:58 GMT

I might be getting a new snake by christmas so with one is better, a sand boa, or a ball python? With one would you raither have?

Emerald tree boa vs Green tree python

BigCatTattoos — Thu, 11 Sep 2008 14:43:41 GMT

I have a question for any of you that have had or currently keep, Green Tree Pythons or Emerald Tree Boas. Which has a better temperament? Which is easier to care for? Which doesn't mind handling (like for educational shows)? My husband builds our custom enclosures (lucky me-I married a contractor! lol). What size do they get, & type of enclosure, substrate, etc are needed? Color and looks aren't important to me, I just need more variety for my school shows. I have been considering one of these. Anyone have any tips or information for me? All assistance is greatly appreciated! I have over 7 years experience with various species of herps too. thanks, Marine

Green Tree Python Morph Help

FastFoward5k — Sun, 28 Sep 2008 07:39:34 GMT

I have heard that the red neonates turn green when they are adults. Is this true? And if it is, do the yellow ones do it too?

MITES!!!

PythonkindaPerson — Thu, 04 Sep 2008 21:04:17 GMT

Let me just start by saying i love going to Petco and taking my snakes or beardies with me,even if im not buying anything.I have friends that work there and when i walk in either location i frequent everyone knows me.but on my last couple trips to one of them i noticed a dead milk snake!and mites in the rose boa tank!I notified one of the associates and a week later nothing had been done.ill still buy stuff from them but im not sure about animals anymore!

Quick Ball Python Question

TheAnole95 — Sat, 27 Sep 2008 18:01:10 GMT

Could you keep 2 adult ball pythons in a tank???

lowest price on red tails

greybandsrock — Sat, 05 Jul 2008 08:50:35 GMT

Hey I was just wondering what the lowest price was for a red tail boa that anyone has seen

reptiles

1 black corn snake
1 leo
1sub-adult veiled chameleon

soon to be

1 red tail boa

Dumerils Boa

matt94rocks — Thu, 31 Jul 2008 14:00:15 GMT

This week I will be getting a young dumerils boa.Because I sold my pastel to one of my friends that fell in love with so tomorrow or the next day I will post pics of this little guy.I have some questions though for people who have them how fast do they grow and as adults do they eat rats or rabbits.

New Green Snake

Suebcee — Wed, 24 Sep 2008 09:18:03 GMT

Hi All,

I just purchased a green snake (rough maybe? I found out after we got it that there are 2 types) for my daughter. It is currently being housed in a small plastic aquatic terrarium. I just want to make sure the little cutie is being housed correctly. We have a beardie who's needs are way more complicated than this guy! For substrate I put that block dirt stuff in there (I wet it down first) about maybe an inch thick layer. I have a plastic vine/leaf type thing that goes from bottom to cage top. I put some moss in there which seems to be a nice hiding place for her. A heating pad under the cage. Anything else I should know? Does she need UV lighting and if so, any wattage suggestions for such a small terrarium? I know eventually I will have to upgrade her housing. I have a 30L breeder that I plan to move her into when she gets bigger. She's about 4 months old (that's what I was told by the seller anyway) I think if I put her in it now, she may have to really work to find her food. Thanks !

Sue

Newspaper as substrate

Reptile_Dude — Thu, 25 Sep 2008 13:43:45 GMT

I would like to start keeping my snakes on shredded newspaper but am wondering about a couple things. If it comes in contact with an undertank heating pad, is there a good chance that it will start on fire? Would putting down a sheet of reptile cage carpet first help? Also, if the ink rubs off on them, is it harmful in any way, such as the possibility to give them a kind of skin disease?

These may be awkward questions but I just want to be sure before I jump into it.

I got a new ball python yesterday....

nagadragon — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 14:02:12 GMT

For starters, I love my new little guy, but he seems to puff alot, and the occasional little cough. He was yawning a bit more than normal yesterday, but these things aren't regular enough to lead me to respiratory illness. He's about 3 feet long, well fed, and came from a house with a 2-year old. He's nice and mellow, and I'm wondering if there's something I can do to help this before it "takes off"? And yes, I do have it in the proper housing, with a heat lamp and a heat rock...he's actually smart enough to move if it gets too hot.

Breeding Ball Pythons

rizzo — Wed, 23 Jul 2008 19:52:28 GMT

What is a good age to start breeding balls. Any info or suggestions will be helpful. Thanks in advance.

convince me

Brutus — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:23:08 GMT

ok, so can every one tell me why they think a king snake is a good pet tell me, then (in parenthesees) say why NOT, thank you...

Ball Pythons

rizzo — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 14:33:37 GMT

Hi.

My BAll is having a hard time shedding.I put him im a warm water tank for a half hour. This helped a little. Also I am having a hard time keeping his tank in the mid 80s. I have a undertank heating pad but it is not helping.Should I use a heat lamp or a heat rock. Please help a new snake owner.Also would feeding him now also help.

How Do You Convince You Mom To Let You Get A Kenyan Sand Boa?

ReptileQueenForever — Sat, 23 Aug 2008 13:07:57 GMT

I'm 18 and my mom has let me bring just about every kind of herp into the house, EXCEPT snakes. She HATES them. I thought getting a Kenyan Sand Boa since their small and tamer, she might not mind. But I haven't asked her yet. So any ideas on how to get her to say yes? I've always wanted a snake, but its not so easy to get her to say yes.

New Snakes

TAOreptiles — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 16:26:45 GMT

This weekend I was able to attend the Wasatch Reptile Expo. It was a lot of fun, not as big as some other shows, but still pretty good. I spent the better part of 2 days just browsing and enjoying myself. In the end I came home with 4 new snakes, 1.1.0 Albino Nelson's Milksnakes and 1.1.0 Mexican Black Kingsnakes. It was so much fun and my new little guys are awesome.

a name, a name...

nagadragon — Mon, 22 Sep 2008 14:08:16 GMT

I just got my Ball Python, and I can't think of a name. I want something unique, or interesting, but easy to pronounce and remember. He's 3 feet long, sweet as pie, and loves going out to the store (he spent the entire day yesterday coiled around my arm, driving around, in and out of stores). Any ideas?

Thanks

rizzo — Sun, 21 Sep 2008 14:47:42 GMT

Thanks for all the help with my shedding problem. Hawk ate a large mouse and had two soaks a nd the skin slid right off. Thanks again for all the good advice.

What to feed a ball python baby

TheAnole95 — Sun, 14 Sep 2008 09:23:05 GMT

I'm probably getting a baby ball python from a local breeder or LLLReptile. I was going to feed it live pinkie mice, but I havn't been getting any new mice with me lately, so I might buy pinkie mice frozen. How would ball pythons eat somthing frozen, they attack there food by sensing the preys heat. Plz help me

Green Tree python drinkin habits

Fully Scaled — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 17:01:58 GMT

I just got my first GTP a few days ago from a breeder. I was wondering for those of you that have one does your's drink from its water bowl or does it normally drink from the water droplets from when you mist them?? I read that they do one or the other wasnt sure what to look for so she doesnt get dehydrated. Thanks alot!!

heat rocks?

herpintedd — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 17:52:38 GMT

I know that heat rocks are bad and can burn snakes, but i have one that was givin to me and id hate to just throw it away. what do you think about me maybe wrapping it in a towel and burying it in the substrate? I cant really see a problem with this but maybe im missing something. Thanks!

One tank.. two snakes..

fivehunsky — Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:24:42 GMT

Hello all.. I just joined the forum because I have a question to ask about my enclosure.

I have two snakes.. both of similar size, about one foot long..
one ball python and one red tail boa..

My question is.. Can they be housed together? I dont really plan on housing them "together" just in a divided tank..

I have a 50 gallon sized corner style tank.. Its kinda like a large triangle.. I was thinking of bisecting the tank down the middle and keeping the snakes together..

Would that be a bad choice? would being near each other stress the snakes? I know that they can share tanks with their own kind but I didnt know about being that close with different species..

I could paint the divider so that they could see each other.. Im thinking of just using plexiglass and sealing it in..

Any help would be appreciated..

Thank You

bathing bowl

punyhuman — Wed, 17 Sep 2008 06:22:06 GMT

i just startin g making a cga e for my ball python using a lage old dresser it's coming out really good but my question is should i put in a bathing area for him what i was planing on doing was to cut a hole out in the bottom and put in a can litter pan with water in here but i was thinking that might be to much could anyone let me know thanks

I have something great for the snake commintiy

the herptile master — Sat, 13 Sep 2008 10:51:18 GMT

O.k, i was watching a episode of snake wrangliers and guess what! Recent exparement on d.n.a, and venom toxisity show that they are two kinds of black mamba. One is the true one, and the other is most likely a sub-species. I will search the web to see if i can find some pics. What do you think? This is so cool!!!

GTP habits?? is this normal???

Fully Scaled — Tue, 16 Sep 2008 15:03:26 GMT

I am now concernd about my new GTP shes a year old and i got her this past Friday. My question is, is it normal for them to spend a good bit of time on the ground also because mine stays perched from when i get home till i go to work and then when i come home shes on the ground coild up. I know they're supposed to spend alot of time perched. but this has me worried. I keep the tank during the day at around 87F to 88F and at night its around 83F to 85F and i mist her every morning before work and then when i get home from work and then again before i go to bed just to make sure the humidity is up. I keep the humidity around 70% to 80%. Is there anything i need to be worried about or is it just nothing??

JUST GOT MY COLUMBIAN BOA!!! but...

herpintedd — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:50:22 GMT

they guy said that he was only 3.5 feet long and done growing. I know that hes probably going to get bigger but i figured that by the time he did i would be out of hs and out of my house.

when i got home i measured him with my buddy and hes almost six feet!
MY MOMS GONA FLIP!

hahaha
but hes healthy and looks really good. Im so excited. Ill post pics soon! his names father guru

long story lol

Bismarck Banded Python

SnakeKing94 — Wed, 27 Aug 2008 18:28:15 GMT

Hey guys, I've been raising snakes for a while and am looking at getting a Bismark Banded Python. First off, where can i find one of these beauties? Also, does any one have any care info, expecially on caging sizes? Thanks for your assistance!!!

HELP! DUMERILS BOA NOT EATTING.

SunnyKisses — Mon, 15 Sep 2008 10:27:57 GMT

I have a dumerils boa that hasn't eattin in a month or so, I tried pinkie mice, rats and small mice. He's a 12inchs long. Any Ideas on how I can make him eat?

When a Ringneck attacks

GreenAnole09 — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 04:35:11 GMT

My brother told me that if a Ringneck bites you,your whole body is gonna hurt for a week.My brother is as dumb as rocks when it comes to herps but, he said he read it in a book on Ringnecks.I was just wondering.