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Mice arn't breeding Expand / Collapse
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Posted 8/12/2008 8:28:56 AM


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I had 2 mice for about a year know, male and female, and there not breeding. I want them to breed because in the next few months I'm going to get a ball python and I need mice for it. I don't know how to tell apart different sexes in mice. plz help


The Anole is out
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Current Animals:
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1.0.0 Hlya cineria                                     
1.0.0 Canis familiaris (Doyle)
1.1.12 Mus musculus
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Coming soon:
0.0.1 Python regius

Post #65332
Posted 8/12/2008 10:41:29 AM


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Okay, I'm not sure if I mentioned this in my previous article on breeding mice, but if your mice are over a year old they are past their prime. (Usually beyond breeding age) Even if they are of opposite genders and do breed at this point the odds are the mother will die giving birth or have a few sickly kids. A mouse's life span in the wild is less than 6 months! If well kept in captivity they will only last about 1 1/2 - 2 years. Prime breeding age of a mouse is from 8 weeks of age to 8 months of age. I strongly suggest you purchase some other,younger mice, male/female to breed for your project. Or better yet perhaps some rats? Their young do not take as long to reach an adult mouse's size.

The pet stores get genders confused...a lot. Like you said you might have two mice of the same gender. Here are some picks (I know they're fuzzy) that might help. Notice the greater length between anus and genitals on the male mouse. In younger mice the Scrotum is less pronounced but in a male mouse that is 1+years it will definitely be noticeable.

Male Mouse

A= Anus  B= Scrotum C= Genitals

Female Mouse



     Rest in Peace Odin!!!  Your life may have not meant anything to those that abused you; but you meant everything to me.  You will be missed my little friend.


2.2  Savannah Monitors (Loki, Freya, Saga, Thor)
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1.0  California Aberrant Kingsnake (Haku)

1.1  Three-toed Box Turtles (Bowser, Genba)
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Post #65347
Posted 8/12/2008 3:57:39 PM


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Yeah, I found your breeding mice post. Theres a lot of stuff to read, and somthing that long can hurt my eyes, a lot. So can you sum that up for me if its possible?


The Anole is out
___________________________________

Current Animals:
1.0.0 Anolis carolinensis
1.0.0 Hlya cineria                                     
1.0.0 Canis familiaris (Doyle)
1.1.12 Mus musculus
0.0.1 Carassius auratus
___________________________________

Coming soon:
0.0.1 Python regius

Post #65370
Posted 8/12/2008 4:59:14 PM


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"The important thing to remember when starting a colony of mice and rats is to be patient. It takes several months to establish a successful breeding population. Each harem consists of one male and his 4 - 5 females. (One harem per cage) Having any more or less females in a harem is inefficient. Personally, I started with 2 harems. I have found that laboratory breeding cages are excellent temporary homes for expecting mothers."

"Personally, I find that 10 gallon aquariums work wonderfully for each harem. They are easy to clean, provide adequate room and are inexpensive. What you do not want to do is buy the overpriced, showy plastic cages sold at pet stores."

"Rodent blocks are the recommended food for feeder and breeder mice."

"When a female is noticeably pregnant (you can tell from the sack-like protruding belly) remove her from the breeding cage and put her into her own cage. If you do not separate the pregnant female from the other mice, the odds are that they will kill the young."

"The birthing cage may be smaller than the breeding cage but if the female believes it to be cramped she may cannibalize her litter. My females are typically moved to birthing cages 5-7 days before the birthing. I recommend starting out with at least 1 harem of mice and here’s why: young mothers or first time mothers (1 out of 5) have problems with their pregnancy." 

"Also, some mothers are paranoid about humans watching their nesting behavior and/or disturbing their nest both before and after birth. Therefore it is imperative that the mother be left alone the week of the birth and only disturbed for reasons of nourishment (feeding/watering.) Males/Females will nurse for approximately 4 weeks until they will need to go their separate ways. At this time the mother can be returned to her harem."

"One way to determine a mouse’s/rats gender before they are sexually mature is to compare the between their anus and genitals. Males have a much larger space than females between these two areas. Eventually, the male’s testicles will descend between this area. It is nearly impossible to tell gender of newborns. It is best to wait a week or two before determining gender."

"Rat/Mouse pregnancy = approximately 21 days"


"Any time after her birthing a doe (female) can be impregnated again by the male."



     Rest in Peace Odin!!!  Your life may have not meant anything to those that abused you; but you meant everything to me.  You will be missed my little friend.


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0.1  Albino California Kingsnake (Rin)
1.0  California Aberrant Kingsnake (Haku)

1.1  Three-toed Box Turtles (Bowser, Genba)
1.0  Red-Ear Slider (Iggy)
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Post #65373
Posted 9/28/2008 3:52:09 AM
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The pet shops in my neighborhood don't separate the genders- just by age. The venders try to keep all the females, but they do slip up now and then. I just by several and get lucky when a female or two are with the bunch. Then I keep the females for breeding, not feed, along with a few males (Ikeep track of who's breeding with who). I agree with firecrystal: when they are a year+, its hard to breed them (its been done, but the chances are slim). Once you get a few cages of mice, you will have better luck with the breeding. Once the new brood is old enough to tell the gender, separate them to prevent incest, and you should have an ongoing supply of breeders for the future.
Post #69925
Posted 9/28/2008 7:05:55 AM


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I would say screw the mouse breeding. One of the mice probably isn't fertile. Have you even seen the male breed at all? To really get going, your going to need about 10 - 15 mice and a few mice that you know are fertile.

And for a ball python, its really not worth it. Your bp shouldn't even be started on mice. Rat pups are way healthier and way more worth your money.

I would say, feed off the mice when you get your bp or keep them as fuzzy little friends.

I bred mice for a while. i had two tanks full of them. I have many succesful litters, but with the time it takes for them to grow up and and become feeder size, while paying for food and bedding and taking to room to house them, its not worth it. Just buy them.

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Breeding stock of mice and Discoid Cockroaches
Post #69932
Posted 9/28/2008 4:56:33 PM


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HMK91 (9/28/2008)
I would say screw the mouse breeding. One of the mice probably isn't fertile. Have you even seen the male breed at all? To really get going, your going to need about 10 - 15 mice and a few mice that you know are fertile.

And for a ball python, its really not worth it. Your bp shouldn't even be started on mice. Rat pups are way healthier and way more worth your money.

I would say, feed off the mice when you get your bp or keep them as fuzzy little friends.

I bred mice for a while. i had two tanks full of them. I have many succesful litters, but with the time it takes for them to grow up and and become feeder size, while paying for food and bedding and taking to room to house them, its not worth it. Just buy them.

Exactly! If you're going to breed for your bp rats are way better. Now I only breed mice for the pinkies to feed my young corn, and kingsnakes.

     Rest in Peace Odin!!!  Your life may have not meant anything to those that abused you; but you meant everything to me.  You will be missed my little friend.


2.2  Savannah Monitors (Loki, Freya, Saga, Thor)
0.1  Albino California Kingsnake (Rin)
1.0  California Aberrant Kingsnake (Haku)

1.1  Three-toed Box Turtles (Bowser, Genba)
1.0  Red-Ear Slider (Iggy)
0.1  Snow Corn Snake (Sakura)
0.1  Sulcata Tortoise (Casca)

 

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